Pet Stain & Odor Removal Services in Raleigh, NC

Urine dries into uric acid crystals that bond to the fiber, backing, and pad. When they are dry they give off very little odor, but they absorb moisture from the air and reactivate, releasing ammonia. Raleigh humidity from May through September does this reliably, which is why the smell fades in winter and returns in summer. Regular cleaning does not break the crystals down. Enzyme treatment does, which is why the odor stays gone afterward.

We darken the room and go over the carpet with a UV light. Dried urine salts fluoresce under it, so every spot shows up, including the ones along the baseboards and under furniture that never left a visible mark. We mark each one with tape and walk you through what we found before quoting. It is common to find two or three times more spots than the homeowner expected, especially with cats.

Fresh accidents almost always come out completely. Old stains that have been through several humid summers are different. The urine has often changed the dye in the fiber, so even after the odor and residue are gone, a faint yellow or bleached shadow may remain. Those stains usually lighten considerably. We tell you what to expect after the inspection, and if a stain is permanent we say so rather than promising something we cannot deliver.

Usually, yes. Cat urine is more concentrated, and cats tend to return to the same spot, so the pad under a cat's favorite corner is often saturated. Cats also spray vertically, which means the odor may be in the baseboard or drywall as well as the carpet. Dog accidents are usually larger but more scattered and shallower. The UV map tells us which situation we are dealing with and how deep the treatment needs to go.

When it is saturated. Pad is foam, and once urine has soaked through it repeatedly into the subfloor, no amount of treatment will fully decontaminate it. The signs are a large area that fluoresces solidly under UV, a smell that is strong even in dry weather, and staining visible on the back of the carpet. In that case we recommend pulling the carpet back, replacing the pad in that area, sealing the subfloor, and reinstalling, and we tell you on the inspection.

Yes. Each needs different handling. Vomit and feces are treated with an enzyme that breaks down the organic matter, followed by a sanitizing rinse. Blood is a protein stain and is treated cool, since hot water sets protein into the fiber, then rinsed once the enzyme has done its work. Older stains of any of these that have been scrubbed with store-bought products can be harder, because those cleaners often set the stain or leave a sticky residue.

Pet treatment is quoted by the area after the UV inspection, because the price depends on how many spots there are and how deep they go. A few light spots in one room cost far less than a saturated corner that needs sub-surface treatment. It is usually added on top of a standard carpet cleaning for the affected rooms. Send the form with a description of the problem and we will give you a range, and the technician confirms the price on the walkthrough before starting.

We treat pet stains and odor throughout Raleigh, including North Raleigh and the neighborhoods inside the Beltline, plus Cary, Apex, Morrisville, Wake Forest, Garner, Knightdale, Holly Springs, Fuquay-Varina, Durham, and Clayton. The same treatment is available for upholstery and for area rugs through pickup service. If you are just outside those areas, send the form with your zip code and we will confirm.

Mostly, yes, with one caveat. Enzyme treatment keeps working for a day or two after we leave, and the carpet is damp during that time, so you may notice a faint odor while it dries that fades as the room airs out. Once the carpet is dry the treated spots should smell like nothing. The true test is the next humid stretch. If the odor comes back within seven days, contact us and we return and re-treat under the seven-day satisfaction guarantee.

Store-bought enzymes can work on a fresh surface accident, but two things usually go wrong. The spray never reaches the pad, where most of the urine ended up, so the crystals underneath keep reactivating. And the enzyme needs to stay wet and undisturbed for hours to digest the residue, which rarely happens with a light misting. Our treatment uses a stronger enzyme, the right dwell time, and sub-surface injection and extraction, then rinses everything out so nothing is left to feed odor.

Blot, do not scrub. Press a folded white towel into the spot and stand on it to pull up as much liquid as you can, then repeat with a dry towel. Skip the steam cleaner, since heat sets urine, and skip anything with bleach or ammonia, which can bleach the dye and confuse the dog into marking the same spot again. Cover the area with a dry towel so no one steps on it. Then send the form and tell us how many spots.